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How to bleed m8000 brakes | Shimano Deore XT M8000 brakes

hey it’s Eric with ride labs and I don’t know if you if saw some of my videos from down in st. George but you might have noticed I
had some problems with my rear brake so I came over to Steven’s house and he’s
gonna help me bleed these brakes all right let’s get to it the first thing that you want to do is
to remove the rear reel just pull that wheel right off put it aside for now
next once we’ve removed the wheel we will remove the c-clip put it aside in a
magnetic holder so we don’t lose it then we will loosen this hex key right here
so that we can remove the brake pads get them out of the way so that we don’t get
any of the oil on them once we’ve removed the brake pads let’s push the
pistons back into place with just a flat rubberized tool so we don’t mar
anything get that get them pushed back in place all the way open then we’ll
install the bleed block we’ll just put that in there put this hex back in there
so that stays in place next we want to get the bike oriented so that the
brake is at the lowest point once the brake lever is now at the top of the
line we’re going to loosen the bolt that it clamps it on to your handlebars it’s
a four millimeter hex now that we have the lever at the top of the line we’re
going to try to adjust it so that it’s a 45 by loosening the hex that holds it in
and in this case we also have to loosen the shifters and get those out of the
way so that we can get it down at the right angle so your actual lever is
supposed to be at about a 45 degree angle to the ground all right the next
thing that we’re going to do is use our two and a half millimeter hex to loosen
this bleed cap on the top of your lever put that aside and then you just screw
the funnel in and just hand tighten that next we’ll fill up our syringe about
half full with the oil and then we’ll pull this back a little bit to get the
fluid out of the line and we want to make sure we get all the air that we can
out of the syringe so that we don’t introduce more air into the line
now before we connect the syringe there’s this little rubber dust cap that
we’re just going to put to the side for now and then we’re going to press the
tube on and then there’s a little black sleeve that goes over and we’ll push
this tool down here which will lock it on place now if you have a little
spanner you can put that on beforehand but I don’t have the right sized spanner
which should be a seven millimeter so I’m going to use it an adjustable one
now this should be nice and tight so that that syringe doesn’t come off now I
notice there’s a big bubble on here that’s okay we’ll push it all the way
through the line all right now we’ll take this plunger out of the cup put a
little bit of oil in there so that we don’t introduce some more air bubbles
just a little bit all right now we’re going to take our seven millimeter
wrench in this case I’m going to use an adjustable one and I’m going to loosen
it an eighth of a turn and that should open that valve now as I push oil
through the syringe I can see it coming up through the cup and just continue to
push the fluid through you should see some bubbles if there’s air in the line
all right now that that cup is full we need to dispose of some oil so I’m just
gonna tighten this bolt back here to close the valve and then stick this
plunger in right here oops wrong way around rubber seal down and that should
keep this from spilling out when we unscrew it and then take this off to
dispose it now I’m just going to screw this Cup back in there real quick so
that I can push the more fluid through and make sure that we have some clean
fluid coming out the other side let’s try to continue to push as much fluid as
we can through there all right so next we’re going to put some clean oil here
in the cup and then we’re going to compress the brake lever and let the oil
come out in the bottom all right so now we have this bolt
closed here so that when we remove the syringe put our oil collection bag on
it’s not going to leak until we open up this port now that we have the oil
collection bag at the bottom we’re going to open that valve and then just tap our
brakes a couple of times to get the oil flowing we need to watch the level of
the oil up here in the cup to make sure that it doesn’t go too low so keep on
adding oil as we flush oil out the bottom now the oil should start flowing
out of the bottom here into our oil collection back and we’ll want to just
pop the lens up a little bit to make sure we get those last bubbles out tap
the caliper and if you need squeeze the brake a little bit with keeping an eye
on the level in your cup because we have some dirty oil in here we’re going to
let this go for a while and try to flush it a lot of oil out of the brake now
we’re just going to go ahead and tighten that up close that valve then I’m just
going to take this zip tie I’m going to apply pressure to the brake lever then
we’re going to take our wrench and we’re just going to open this valve up and
close it and click Secession 2 to 3 times next we’re going to take our allen
wrench loosen the brake a little bit and tilt it back up the other way – about 30
degrees tighten it all right then we’re going to repeat this process of opening
and closing it quickly two to three times now we will take this brake lever
and put it back about where it should be and we can go ahead and remove our zip
tie put a plug back in the cup go ahead and remove the cup put that aside and
then we will replace the cap with our two and a half millimeter tighten that
max key now the torque spec to that is only like half to one Newton meter which
is not very tight at all now we want to remove our oil collection bag make sure
that our valve is closed replace our little rubber dust cap and clean off any
oil remaining on the brakes you can use isopropyl alcohol if you want to get it
nice and clean now we’re going to remove our bleed block just remove that hex
bolt again and we will put our brake calipers that we put aside back in let’s
you’re just slide right in put our bolt through
tighten them down now don’t forget the little c-clip all right now all we have
left is to put the wheels back on and we are ready to ride the brakes axle back
hmm let’s get the back wheel back on because we had it shifted into our
lowest gear it’s easy to remember where the derailleur should be breaks down my
let’s test out our brake know what what happened in between I think it’s just
that I think it works there we go all right Steven well thanks so much for
helping me with my bike and showing my viewers how to bleed the brakes I really
appreciate it you’re welcome Eric catch ya later
here you

5 thoughts on “How to bleed m8000 brakes | Shimano Deore XT M8000 brakes

  1. Nice job, both of you. I like how they make most things on a bike pretty simple. You both show that you don't have to have a bike shop do everything.

  2. Excellent video boys. Subbed! And that bike stand y'all are using is SICK man! I got mine about two years ago on amazon, $60 bones and all I've ever needed to do to it is throw a little grease on the bolts once a year. Other then that, it gets used to hold my bikes when working on them, while outside and I'm washing my bikes, whatever I need to do. The stand is worth every penny!

  3. A excellent video to show how to bleed brakes especially hydraulics but I have one question what happens if somebody slips the cable

  4. Dude, you failed because your bleed procedure is wrong. You shouldnt have used the ziptie on the brake handle this pushes the oil out of the resevoir(used only for avid/sram and formula), then u release oil from the caliper….simply you ended up with not enough oil in the system. You used like 3 diffirent bleeding procedures and mixed it up and ended up with a poor result. Ofc when u bleed use new pads afterwards. Used pads if executed the procedure well should also work, but using fresh is a smatter choice. Nice video tho 😉

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